Coming off my recent post on nitrates—where we questioned whether all processed meats really deserve their bad rap—unpacking plant-based burgers felt like a fitting sequel. If we’re being nudged away from beef and toward meatless options, it’s worth asking: What exactly are we biting into?
The plant-based burger boom has taken over everything from backyard barbecues to fast food menus. From humble black bean patties to lab-engineered beef lookalikes, there’s no shortage of options. But not all of them are as wholesome—or as satisfying—as their packaging might suggest.
And I would know. I recently blind tasted 16 plant-based burgers for Epicurious—an experience that was part nutrition experiment, part existential crisis. Somewhere around bite twelve, I started asking deeper questions. Are we really trading up when we trade out beef?
More on the tasting later. But first, let’s talk about what these meatless burgers are made of—and whether they deserve a spot on your plate.
Before we dive in, let’s get our definitions straight. “Plant-based burger” is a broad umbrella—but what’s underneath it ranges from veggie-packed patties to lab-engineered beef lookalikes.
Meat analogues are designed to impersonate beef—in taste, texture, and appearance. They use protein isolates (like soy or pea), binders, and flavorings to recreate the experience of eating meat. Think Impossible or Beyond.
Other plant-based burgers take a whole-food approach, made from ingredients you’d recognize in your kitchen—like black beans, lentils, quinoa, or sweet potatoes. They’re not pretending to be meat; they’re just solid veggie burgers.
Bottom line: All meat analogues are plant-based, but not all plant-based burgers are meat analogues. It’s like comparing a tofu dog to a grilled portobello cap—both meatless, but playing very different games.
The Meat Analogue Controversy
When Impossible and Beyond first hit the scene, they didn’t just disrupt—they took over. Their mission? Replicate beef so convincingly that even carnivores wouldn’t miss it. And for a while, they nailed it. These burgers sizzled, seared, and promised to save the planet one patty at a time.
Then the questions started.
Health experts asked: Is a patty made from protein isolates and coconut oil really better for you than beef? Environmentalists pointed to industrial production and packaging waste. Nutrition professionals—myself included—started reading the fine print and wondering: did we just trade one kind of saturated fat for another kind of processed food?
Here’s the tricky part: meat analogues live in a nutritional gray zone. They’re not quite junk food, but they’re also not lentils and leafy greens.
So—are they a smarter choice, or just ultra-processed food in a clever disguise? In this piece, I break down what’s good, what’s not so good, and what’s still up for debate.
Meat Analogues: The Good
Let’s give credit where it’s due. These burgers aren’t all bad—in fact, they have a few meaningful advantages.
High protein: Most deliver 18–21 grams per 4-ounce patty—on par with beef.
Iron-rich: Thanks to added iron—or soy leghemoglobin in the case of Impossible—these burgers often meet or even exceed daily iron needs. However, the iron in Beyond appears to be the non-heme variety, which isn’t as easily absorbed unless paired with vitamin C. Fortunately, that’s an easy fix: a squeeze of lime, a few slices of red pepper—just don’t forget the assist.
Dietary fiber: Unlike ground beef, many meat analogues include at least a couple grams of fiber—especially those made with soy, oats, or grains.
No animals harmed: If your motivation is ethical, meat analogues offer a familiar option with a lighter conscience.
Convenient: Ready-to-cook and consistent—no defrosting, no pink centers, no guesswork.
Note: Ground beef on its own is low in sodium—but most people season it with salt before cooking, which likely evens out the numbers.
Meat Analogues: The Not So Good
Here’s where things get sticky. The ingredient lists—and the way these burgers are engineered—raise valid concerns.
1. Ultra-Processed by Design
These aren’t made from lentils and love. Instead, they’re built in layers—each serving a function, but not necessarily adding nutrition.
Protein isolates and concentrates
What they are: Refined proteins from peas, soy, or wheat—stripped of fiber and most nutrients.
Why they’re used: To match or exceed the protein in beef.
Health implications: Safe overall, but highly processed.
Binders like methylcellulose
What they are: A synthetic, chemically modified fiber that doesn’t occur in whole foods.
Why they’re used: Holds the patty together and adds chew.
Health implications: Considered safe, but can cause GI upset in some.
Starches and gums(e.g., potato starch, xanthan gum)
What they are: Stabilizers and moisture retainers.
Why they’re used: Improve texture and prevent dryness.
Health implications: Generally fine in small amounts, but not nutritious. Can cause bloating or gas in sensitive individuals.
Natural flavors and yeast extracts
What they are: Vague terms for flavor compounds derived from natural sources.
Why they’re used: Create that savory, meaty flavor.
Health implications: Safe. Yeast extracts can be high in glutamates, which can cause headaches to those sensitive to them.
Colorants like beet juice extract or soy leghemoglobin
What they are: Ingredients that make the patty “bleed” like rare beef.
Why they’re used: Boost visual realism for meat eaters.
Health implications: Beet juice is benign. Soy leghemoglobin is FDA-approved but of lab-grown origin. It does provide bioavailable iron.
2. High in Saturated Fat
Some meat analogues, like Impossible, rely on coconut or palm oil—both of which can push saturated fat levels up to match those of a conventional beef burger. To lower the saturated fat, some brands are experimenting with avocado or other vegetable oils.
Coconut oil plays a key role: it’s solid at room temperature, which helps deliver that rich, fatty mouthfeel of a traditional burger. When it’s removed, manufacturers often increase methylcellulose—not just as a binder, but to recreate the texture and juiciness that coconut oil would otherwise provide.
3. Low in Real Plants
Despite the “plant-based” label, many of these products don’t contain:
Beans
Grains
Vegetables you can recognize
Instead, you get a lineup of refined isolates, starches, and additives.
In a nutshell…
These burgers may taste like meat, but they’re built more like science projects. For some, that’s fine. For others, it defeats the purpose of eating more plants.
Meat Analogues: Still Up for Debate
You’ve probably heard these burgers are better for the planet. The answer? It’s complicated.
If you’re wondering whether these burgers are “healthy,” the answer—like most things in nutrition, is: it depends.
Meat analogues aren’t a nutritional disaster, but they’re also not a superfood. They can be a smart swap if you're replacing beef in a burger-heavy routine. But if you're moving from a whole-food, plant-rich plate to one built on isolates and additives, at best it’s a step sideways.
Think of them like protein bars in burger form: useful in the right context, but not the kind of thing you want to build your diet around.
Read the label. Watch the fat. And don’t confuse "plant-based" with "nutrient-dense."
Back to Epicurious: This is how it went down
Sixteen burgers. One cast iron pan. And a camera crew capturing every bite.
I arrived at the Condé Nast Studios early and skipped breakfast—partly to come in with a clean palate, partly because, well... sixteen burgers. Each patty was cooked fresh, right before I tasted it, to make sure the flavors were hot off the stove and fair game. No cold, soggy samples.
The tasting was blind, which meant no packaging, no brand names, and no preconceived opinions. Just me, a numbered lineup, and a whole lot of soy, peas, and yeast extract.
And the cameras? They never stopped rolling. They caught every raised eyebrow, every surprised “huh,” every less-than-flattering comment I might have muttered under my breath. Hopefully, the editor is kind—but either way, the reactions were real.
We judged each burger on:
Flavor: Would I take another bite?
Texture: Mushy mess or burger-worthy chew?
Ingredient quality: Too many additives = red flag.
Nutrition numbers: Gotta back up the flavor with decent stats.
It was part taste test, part endurance event—but by the end, a few clear winners emerged.
I won’t spoil the full taste test lineup here—you’ll have to watch the Epicurious video when it drops later this month (don’t worry, I’ll send out a link 😉). But after 16 burgers, more methylcellulose than I care to admit, and three hours of hot-off-the-stove tasting, a few stood out from the pack.
These weren’t just the best of the bunch—they were burgers I’d actually eat again.
Favorite: Beyond Burger with Avocado Oil
Important note: get the avocado oil version. It’s a noticeable upgrade from the original—both in taste and nutrition. Low in saturated fat, high in protein and iron. The flavor is savory and satisfying, the texture is meaty without being rubbery, and it holds up well in a bun. I’d pair it with mustard, pickles, and some grilled onions. Maybe even a slice of cheddar.
Savory, satisfying, and solidly structured—it’s one of the few meat analogues I’d actually recommend keeping in the freezer.
This one leans hearty and flavorful, thanks to beans, quinoa, and a well-balanced seasoning blend. It’s not trying to be meat—and that works in its favor. While it’s not a protein powerhouse, it’s low in saturated fat and offers a good dose of fiber. I could see it with a dollop of plain Greek yogurt for extra protein and some pickled veggies on a bun, wrapped in a tortilla as a burrito, or crumbled over salad greens with a tahini drizzle.
Treat it like a well-seasoned bean patty, and it’ll treat you right.
Also Noteworthy: Bubba Burger Original Veggie Burger
This is your grill-out friendly, crowd-pleasing option—perfect when you're feeding a mix of vegetarians, vegans, and everyone in between. The flavor is straightforward but plays well with toppings, and the texture should hold up nicely on the grill.
Nutritionally? It’s neutral—not a rock star, but not a troublemaker either.
For non-vegans, top it with a slice of melty cheese. For everyone else, go big with grilled onions, avocado, or pickled jalapeños.
Not trying to be meat—just trying to taste good. Mission accomplished.
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